Clinton Harwell is bringing his act to Waco beginning Monday, with his Pignetti’s Waco restaurant opening in the former Phoenix Ballroom downtown, where he will serve Italian food, steaks and fine wines in a classic atmosphere.
Diners with window seats can watch, or hear, Union Pacific railroad cars rumble by between courses. The more than 6,000-square-foot dining area oozes with hardwoods, tinkling wine glasses, and fine furniture tucked into nooks and crannies. Pignetti’s, as fans of the Temple location know, offers a substantial Italian menu. Harwell said lasagna and meatball appetizers represent signature dishes. Steaks will have a prominent place in Waco.
Harwell, during a recent tour, said he hopes to establish Pignetti’s Waco as a standard bearer in the wine department, mirroring the reputation the name enjoys in Temple. To that end, Pignetti’s Waco will occasionally host special dinners at which it will showcase a wine of the evening. Last Thursday, for example, the David Arthur Winery of Napa Valley basked in the spotlight during a $159-per-guest reception. The four-course meal featured strawberry and halloumi salad with nectarine vinaigrette, glazed pork belly with end-of-summer succotash, stuffed mushrooms with pine nuts and currants, and sous vide filet mignon with sun-dried cherry sauce and potato aligot.
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An extra pour of 2017 Elevation 1147 from David Arthur fetched $45.
“You have to develop a relationship to get those wines before they will allow you to order,” said Harwell. “We hope to distinguish ourselves as a wine destination, in addition to offering delicious food and good service.”
A nice evening at Pignetti’s Waco will run about $125 a couple, including dinner, appetizers, wine, tip and tax, said Donnie Johnson, who joined Harwell on this adventure and will oversee operations. Johnson’s background includes stints at fine dining establishments in Austin, a sector that took a licking during the COVID-19 pandemic. Johnson said his respect for Harwell, Pignetti’s and Waco’s burgeoning dining scene made relocating easy.
Pignetti’s will seat more than 200, including private room and patio.
It was a year ago this month Harwell confirmed he would open a second Pignetti’s location, this one about 30 miles up the road. He has a loyal following throughout Central Texas, including Waco, so it made sense to spread the love for Italian cuisine. He also couldn’t resist the prodding of Waco businessman Tom Wright, who owns Built Wright Construction and beats a path to Pignetti’s quite often to satisfy his cravings.
Baylor University Regent Todd Patterson, a Houston patent attorney, and Wright now own the former Phoenix Ballroom building, having bought it from longtime owner Leslie Henry. It was under her control the space flourished as a venue for the grandest of life’s events, including weddings and proms. Henry remodeled the place, paying most attention to HVAC systems and other basics while preserving history and ambience wherever possible.
“It has great bones. She did a great job with the renovation. It’s a gorgeous building,” said Johnson, the redo creating space for a full bar and lounge that should encourage “great happy hours and adulting time.”
Harwell said Pignetti’s Waco will introduce itself to the community as a dinner destination before gradually adding lunch and brunch. The midday menu probably will feature less expensive fare conducive to family dining, including hamburgers. Pignetti’s will serve pizza when it can, said Harwell. The pizza oven finally arrived, but duct work awaits installation.
Harwell said labor, material and supply chain issues have wreaked havoc with his budget and his schedule. He said costs to put Pignetti’s in place now exceed estimates by 30% to 40%, though he politely declined to say exactly how much the transformation has set him back. He said Wright’s involvement has proved invaluable in troubleshooting and navigating red tape.
“Work could have lasted another year without him,” Harwell said.
Waco real estate agent Clay Fuller has been instrumental in getting Pignetti’s to Waco and off the ground. He said during a tour last week he’s pursuing a tenant or tenants to complement the jewel Pignetti’s represents.
Harwell said he sees Pignetti’s becoming a go-to place for fine dining downtown. He sees locals and tourists making their way to Pignetti’s. Sports fans may choose the restaurant to celebrate or commission.
“We want to take care of everyone,” he said. “In Temple, I have parents of kids 7, 10, 12 years old who ask where they would like to celebrate good grades in school, and they choose us. I thank them for that.”
Carla Pendergraft, who promotes tourism and markets the Waco Convention Center, said she will place Pignetti’s on the city’s tourism website at wacoheartoftexas.com.
“This allows both conventioneers and visitors to see what restaurants are nearby and choose what suits their taste,” said Pendergraft. “Pignetti’s is truly an upscale dining experience, and those of us who have visited their Temple location look forward to eating fine Italian food closer to home.”
Fuller said he and his family and colleagues dined at Pignetti’s last week, when the restaurant sought to work out kinks in food preparation and customer service before the official opening Monday.
“Great atmosphere and great food,” said Fuller of his experience.
He said on-site parking for 100 vehicles is an advantage Pignetti’s may enjoy over other establishments downtown, where spaces are becoming scarce.
Across town, at 6500 Woodway Drive, Di Campli’s Italian Ristorante is making waves on the fine dining scene. Pignetti’s Johnson said he visited Di Campli’s and left impressed with food and service. He had nothing negative to say.
“Waco’s growing. There’s room for a lot of great restaurants,” said Johnson. “I think we can do well. Maybe better than anyone.”
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